Little fish, big pond

[Guy97]

Hi guys,
I newbie from down under here. I started some projects about a year ago. Simple stuff but I want to try a dry cell. I got some stainless steel plates 200*200 from work and have a friend that will cut some 12mm polycarbonate for the ends. I'm first of going to bench this one as I don't have a car (get my licenses next year). Im going to use a MAXX tronics 30amp adjustable frequency pwm with an ammeter. I would like to put each anode on its own switch(Personnal decision) with an led indicating if each cell is on. Should I use an illuminated switch or use a dpst switch with a led circuit on its own. I'm only going to run it at 15a limited. Im putting in a circuit breaker, master switch and fuse inline for safety. So what do you guys reckon? The other question was what should I use as a power supply? I'm thinking of converting a old computer power supply because of the multiple voltages and constant supply. Price is a little bit of an issue as a 15yr old can't earn a real lot.

Thanks guys in advance for the info and the previous info on the site,
Mathew

[RustyLugNut]

I would suggest breaking them down into steps. Work through each step and build forward. That way you can learn and minimize your costs and time expenditure. If you have a car in mind, you can build for that car and it's probable needs.

Starting with your power supply (PS):

There are many resources on the web to reconfigure an ATX power supply. You can use an older AT PS, but they tend to have much lower amperage capabilities. Either way you can produce a serviceable bench PS. The local computer shop recycles PS all the time, and I can grab a bunch for free in most cases. Most "dead" PS are because the motherboard is not receiving a clean power signal and doesn't give a "power good" feedback. The "ripple" is too much to be useful, so the PS is shut off. There are ways to turning the power supply "on" even though the voltage is not as clean as a computer motherboard would like it. You can also locate and de-solder the important components (step down transformer, rectifying diodes or bridge and the filter capacitors) and transfer them to a perf board to make your own supply. Just look up AC to DC power supplies and you will get thousands of hits on google. It is a good education that you might enjoy.

Do not get a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) controller until you have a working HHO generator. You might find that you may not desire it or need it in the future, and the PWM controller might introduce complexities and problems you may not be able to differentiate from other problems.

The HHO generator:

Polycarbonate plastic has it's uses. Strong and with excellent impact capabilities, it is used in protective shields and bulletproof windows. It is, however, attacked by many chemicals. Short term, you can use it in the construction of your end plates, but you may find it will craze and crack over time due to it's exposure to the various chemicals we use in HHO generation and in the automotive engine bay. But, since you are getting it for near free, go ahead and use it for now.

Also, if you can get a hold of enough free stainless plates, see if you can sell or trade them for other parts you may need. Not everyone here on the forums can get reasonable prices for a generator plate. It depends on your plate count.

Wiring:

I'm having problems picturing your switching and indicator LEDs. Post up once you have a diagram or picture, OK?

Good luck to your build.

Learn well.

[D.O.G]

Hi guys,
I newbie from down under here. I started some projects about a year ago. Simple stuff but I want to try a dry cell. I got some stainless steel plates 200*200 from work and have a friend that will cut some 12mm polycarbonate for the ends. I'm first of going to bench this one as I don't have a car (get my licenses next year). Im going to use a MAXX tronics 30amp adjustable frequency pwm with an ammeter. I would like to put each anode on its own switch(Personnal decision) with an led indicating if each cell is on. Should I use an illuminated switch or use a dpst switch with a led circuit on its own. I'm only going to run it at 15a limited. Im putting in a circuit breaker, master switch and fuse inline for safety. So what do you guys reckon? The other question was what should I use as a power supply? I'm thinking of converting a old computer power supply because of the multiple voltages and constant supply. Price is a little bit of an issue as a 15yr old can't earn a real lot.

Thanks guys in advance for the info and the previous info on the site,
Mathew

G'day Mathew, welcome.

A word of warning about using polycarbonate.
I tried it (three times!) for my first dry cell. It didn't even last through the cleaning/conditioning phase before cracking.
12mm or 19mm chopping boards (HDPE) are a reasonable alternative, check ebay, you should be able to cut both ends from one board