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Thread: MAP sensor damage

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    MAP sensor damage

    So with these issues with my car I've found a few correlations and others I'm finding to be coincidences. In order to make sure the EFIE will work I gotta get all these issues fixed and I'm wondering if the fact that the EFIE lights did work correctly had something to do with this.

    If the potentiometer was used on the wrong wire and did damage, what sensors would it have harmed?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    Could be anything. Best thing to do is to unplug everythingnyou installed put the car on the computer and see which codes pop up. And move forward from their

  3. #3
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    Apr 2012
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    No codes, there have not been any codes with the problem. And the cars been through many cycles.

    Could it damage the ECU itself?

  4. #4
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    Jul 2012
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    well anything could happen if you send the wrong signal to the wrong wire. every signal is just voltage in different amount and different polarities. so if you connect the efie to the wrong wire and it sends a different signal to what ever you connected it to (for example it would send a negative signal to a positive receiver) then it would defiantly mess it up. including the ecu. but if anything in the car concerning sensors the ecu bcm or whatever a code will pop up.

    What are your issues. what symptoms are you having with your car. and what year make and model

  5. #5
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    Jul 2012
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    and what engine size

  6. #6
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    Apr 2012
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    97 accord ex 2.2L
    Car surges or delays power when under load just as it switches from open to closed loop. then a few seconds later everything will go back to normal.

  7. #7
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    Jul 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjrobinson View Post
    97 accord ex 2.2L
    Car surges or delays power when under load just as it switches from open to closed loop. then a few seconds later everything will go back to normal.

    May or may not be your problem and solution. But as I have worked on many of this particular model, It sounds like you have a idle air control issue. The idle control unit on your car is directly behind the intake next to the firewall, just beside the throttle body. If it's dirty, clogged or has moisture in it it will cause the car to surge, die, or rev up at random. Primarily when at idle or deceleration. Clean thoroughly with throttle body cleaner and try it again if the problem is better or goes away, you have found the issue. If the problem only gets better but doesn't go away, then replace the part. If it doesn't affect it at all have a tech check it on a scanner to make sure that it is working as it should. This part can go bad and work incorrectly and not throw a code for it !!!
    Its done right or its not done !
    Hail HHO.

  8. #8
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    Apr 2012
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    Ooh, I was told by a mechanic to do that however most people- even he agreed- that there would be a light and code. Its rather hard to take off so I cleaned it from the throttle body but Im upgrading my intake manifold soon anyways. Ill really clean it out then.

    That would cause an issue even if it only happened once after the car starts? It doesnt happen again until the car restarts and goes from open to closed loop.

  9. #9
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    Jul 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjrobinson View Post
    Ooh, I was told by a mechanic to do that however most people- even he agreed- that there would be a light and code. Its rather hard to take off so I cleaned it from the throttle body but Im upgrading my intake manifold soon anyways. Ill really clean it out then.

    That would cause an issue even if it only happened once after the car starts? It doesnt happen again until the car restarts and goes from open to closed loop.
    If that is the problem it usually happens most when the engine is cold, after it warms up it isn't as bad or doesn't happen again until its cooled down, or the next day sometimes. The easiest way to get to it is to remove the two bolts that hold the motor mounts to the center cross-member, then the engine rolls forward to have more than enough room to access it. ONLY the center mounts! The right and left mounts stay bolted. It's simple when you do it often! Takes about 45 mins. to finish.

    It's not possible to clean it properly while on the car. Oily build-up settles inside of it and becomes dirty, then doesn't come out easily. I've seen several that didn't cause the light to come on, but sometimes it will. That's not something that the computer will tell you is bad unless it is completely not working and sets off another response from another sensor that something is wrong. It controls the idle, that's it! When it doesn't work the idle is high, low, or revving between what the computer is trying to set the idle at.
    Its done right or its not done !
    Hail HHO.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    127
    Ok. That looks like my best bet.
    I was just worried that the MAP sensor enhancer or EFIE damaged something.
    But that all makes sense. I'll be waiting til I'm able to swap the manifold though. That won't be too much longer.

    Thanks.

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