Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: HHO pre air cleaner newbie

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    15

    HHO pre air cleaner newbie

    Hi again everybody,
    I'm at 3rd base with my first system and planning on injecting pre air cleaner.

    Im gertting 1 lpm for about 18 amps -nnnnn+nnnnn- 6"x6" plates ,diamond oreintation. cell temp is about 50 deg Celcius after 30 mins .ambient is 20 deg.

    Does any body have any hands on experience with this ,negative or positive ?

    I read a thread here that is a few years old dominated by a confused but enthuseastic ego that only muddied the waters for me .

    Im sure that all the hho is getting into the motor but I dont know if having the system under vacum is important .
    My motor is 4.5 l petrol obd1 with no oxygen sensor fitted . I have an egt and am able to trim the IAT sensor for slightly leaner mixture with a variable resistor.
    Thanks in advance for any advice


    Lindsay

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NorthEast Fla.
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by nikolatesla View Post
    Hi again everybody,
    I'm at 3rd base with my first system and planning on injecting pre air cleaner.

    Im gertting 1 lpm for about 18 amps -nnnnn+nnnnn- 6"x6" plates ,diamond oreintation. cell temp is about 50 deg Celcius after 30 mins .ambient is 20 deg.

    Does any body have any hands on experience with this ,negative or positive ?

    I read a thread here that is a few years old dominated by a confused but enthuseastic ego that only muddied the waters for me .

    Im sure that all the hho is getting into the motor but I dont know if having the system under vacum is important .
    My motor is 4.5 l petrol obd1 with no oxygen sensor fitted . I have an egt and am able to trim the IAT sensor for slightly leaner mixture with a variable resistor.
    Thanks in advance for any advice


    Lindsay
    Lindsay,
    There is always a small vacuum on the HHO line pre- or post air filter whenever the engine is running. I don't remember reading anywhere that higher vacuum on the HHO line was proven to produce better results. There are two schools of thought, both vehemently defended concerning HHO line distance from final usage point- I wont even go there for fear of starting a new ****e-storm. The air cleaner serves well if you have dirty gas (poorly scrubbed), if you have nice clean dry(er) gas then as close to the throttle body as you can get it is good. It's all good! Experimentation is good also..
    Take care...
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    15
    Thanks biofarmer ,

    Ok then my setup will be with it pre air cleaner for a few thousand kilometeres.

    If i dont get results I will change it and see ...heck, I will probably change it and see either way .

    I will report on my details gains etc after the big trip next month .
    as far as I can see nobody has done a 105 toyota landcruiser 4.5 petrol yet.

    Another thing that Im doing a little different is engaging the drive signal from the autotrans as the lock out for the hho.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NorthEast Fla.
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by nikolatesla View Post
    Thanks biofarmer ,

    Ok then my setup will be with it pre air cleaner for a few thousand kilometeres.

    If i dont get results I will change it and see ...heck, I will probably change it and see either way .

    I will report on my details gains etc after the big trip next month .
    as far as I can see nobody has done a 105 toyota landcruiser 4.5 petrol yet.

    Another thing that Im doing a little different is engaging the drive signal from the autotrans as the lock out for the hho.
    I trust you are going to use some sensing method on that transmission signal that does not in any way affect the signal itself?
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    15
    Good point,
    Im using the transmission switch output in the center console mechanically attached to the handle which is 12 v high in drive . I aslo powers the D light on the dashboard . Ill use a diode for isolation just to be sure thgough. and via the dash switch to the big relay between bat+ and generator .

    Something of interest is that I have used alluminium plate heatsink material for my end plates . _nnnnn+nnnnn-As this is negative anyway and needs heat dispersion, it is bolted to the chassis crossmember for both hat dispersion and conductivity.
    I have not been able to work oput why many use unsulating material here when we can use all the concuctivity ,heat and amps we can get . Perhaps Iv missed something .I am stuck with the end platres being negative .this is my first cell so I welcome advise

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    NorthEast Fla.
    Posts
    988
    Quote Originally Posted by nikolatesla View Post
    I have not been able to work oput why many use unsulating material here when we can use all the concuctivity ,heat and amps we can get . Perhaps Iv missed something .I am stuck with the end platres being negative .this is my first cell so I welcome advise
    -Mainly because NaOh and KOH eat aluminum like a starving man would eat a steak...
    As for heat, you want a fairly narrow range- roughly (and this varies with the ambient air temps) 110°F - 125°F, or you start pumping as much steam as HHO. Affirmative on the conductivity and amps though.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    15
    OOPS ,sorry I was not clear at all
    I used alluminium for the end clamp plates ,the cell plates are stainless, but and are in contact with the external heavy alluminum on each end allowing quite a bit of heat to escape via the alluminium and the vehicle chassis .

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    340
    Holy crude, man. You do NOT want to use aluminum in a cell, at all.
    Personal experience is where I will tell you that it will not last long or with good results. My first cell was in an aluminum fire extinguisher housing. It took about 20 hours to burn thru, but when it did, it was bad. 100% start over! As well, it was worse when my intake had corrosion in it from the contaminated gases getting thru the bubbler. I made a few mistakes at first, but learned very quickly to read up more before throwing another cell together. Please believe, YOU want to get the aluminum out of the cell asap ! Then cleanse it of oxidation well.


    Before I feel too stupid. Are the aluminum plates in any way in the water solution ? Or not ?
    Its done right or its not done !
    Hail HHO.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    15
    No They are not in contact with the solution but are flat against the last cell ss plate at both ends al ss-nnnnn+nnnnn-ss al . There is no way I would use alloy as a cell plate , just a good heat disperser,and it is negative common at both ends so it can be bolted to chassis for more dispersion.

    sorry words are hard to make things clear .
    I will do a few pictures if my big road test comes out ok next week
    Im buliding 2 cells and will swtch 1 or both and try to find optimum.
    My first cell is getting better every day as it runs in.

    something that is fun to do once ..a balloon (large) a long length of light weight toilet paper and a lighter ...at night with little wind.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    15
    Like this with positive in the middle and negative at each end

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •