Originally Posted by
koya1893
Forgive me if I screw this up, hey what do you expect from an "olde salty chief". Okay, when it comes with pressure in a big or small tube it is running through. the pressure is greated on the outer walls than the final exit, expecially at the furthers point the pressure is exiting. If you induce the HHO at the furthers point of the pressure, pressure is not as great if none existance. The rough photo I've attached is showing where I am inducing the HHO on my Ram. so when the pressure is low or great during accel, if the HHO is induced in the pressure path and at the furthers point it will not escape because the pressure is trying to escape on the outer wall of the tube. Hence the pressure will help pull the HHO from the induction point.
I have several photo in numerious post, I have limited access at this time. Take a photo of your intake and post so I can download and point out where you can drill, tap and induce HHO. Your 5.9 loves HHO, water injection and WMO. Oh yeah, that wierd looking drawing is suppose to be your intake elbow, notice the dark flar area that is your intake manifold where the elbow is bolted to, in your case you probably have a heater grid. I have one on my 2012 3500 as well, you need to induce at the min 2.0 lpm to make any difference. I should have looked at the system you are talking about, those reactors are. How do I put this, oh yeah waste of your money. You have them so let's help you made used of them. If they are configured anything less than this: +NNNNN-NNNNN+NNNNN- You need to re-configure them. Oh yeah that small joke of a reservior you have, use it as a secodary res and get a bigger one for remote or just get a 6 gal unit they use for water injection and mount it on the bed. The bigger reservior you have the better your result.
Alos, research the plans for the "waterless bubbler" I posted, it will make the world difference.
Thank you also for responding, and it's good to work with another person who has a RAM! Again sorry for not responding sooner, ongoing family issues.
Space is real tight around my engine. Yours is a bit bigger yet with the 6.7L, and plus you added even more stuff! I had a hard time finding space for the small reservoir tank I got with the kit. Why would the results improve with a larger tank BTW?
- Thank you for the drawing, and i did take a pic of my intake elbow and attached it. Not real clear on the whole pressure issue, but I'll take your word for it, it works! What is it exactly that you use for the inlet valve?
- So it's not a good idea to inject the HHO before the turbo? Just out of curiosity, and being ignorant on this, why? Too much heat from the exhaust heating up the turbo perhaps which heats up the air/HHO?
- My first concern about drilling & tapping the elbow is, I'm trying to keep this "under the radar" so when I get checked for emissions, should they look under the hood, I won't get busted. Here in WA, we have to go get our plate tags yearly. I'd probably remove all HHO evidence beforehand. So drilling and tapping and having an inlet would tend to leave something more permanent. I suppose maybe pulling the inlet and using a bolt for a plug may disguise it a bit.
- Do you know of any resources that may list states that don't vs do have a problem with this technology being installed?
- Also mounting the inlet this close, will it still allow the proper mixing of air to HHO, as myoldyourgold stated "There must also be enough time/distance from the point of injection to the intake to mix the HHO properly so all cylinders get the same charge."
- My funds are running low as I'm on SSD, and this has ended up costing a small fortune so far. Ok, enough whining... I will have to look further into water injection and WMO as well. Thanks for sharing that though. More goals. But I would like to see if at all possible to get some things set up in advance, so adding the water injection and WMO will be easier.
- As for the heater grid, yes, as you'll see in the pic, it has one too.
- So I took a look at my 2-11 plate cells or reactors (see attached photos) each is configured as: -NNNN+NNNN-. They have 3 holes lined up vertically in all the plates. One end the inlet is at the bottom hole, the output fitting is at the top hole of the plates on the opposite side. So what you're saying is, each cell needs 7 more plates reconfigured, or combine the 2 cells into 1 cell? In your plate configuration, does it matter which side is the input and output? Such as input from the res, is it the "-" or "+" end, or doesn't matter?
- I ran the HHOCalculator.exe on this 19 plate configuration and at 15 amps would get 2.819 LPM from it. 2 cells with 19 plates each running at 10 amps a piece would yield a total of 3.758 LPM. MYOLDYOURGOLD stated to keep the output to no more than 4% of the volume of the intake, which then wouldn't cause a flashback from the heater grid. So how much is too much if we're talking LPM's? Will the 2 cell configuration I currently have work well enough?
- As for the Waterless Bubbler, I found your post of the drawing. I had bought a Dryer, which does essentially the same. Only improvement on the Dryer would be to install a drain plug at the bottom of it, rather than having to unscrew the body off the top. I saw a YouTube video of a guy who made a filter out of PVC pipe and showed the difference in the flame off his torch with, and without the filter. I agree it will make a big difference. It had a clean burning flame. Plus that KOH is caustic and bad news on engine parts from what I found out.
- Besides the reservoir tank being essentially the first Bubbler, do see any reason to use a partially water filled 2ndary Bubbler before the Dryer or Waterless Bubbler?
- Finally, what is the water injection system you both are using
Thanks for all your input, and sorry for so many questions. Looking forward to your response.
Crevice Dog
'06 Dodge RAM 2500 5.9L 4X4 LB Laramie / K&N Cold Air Intake System / Edge Insight CTS w/Pyrometer