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Thread: An interesting point of view on O2 sensor manipulation

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by singnpreacher View Post
    Thanks for the advice! I decided to go ahead and run it straight from the battery to a toggle switch just under my dash. I've got 3 inline fuses at this point, but I'll likely rewire to where I just have one.

    I can now choose whether or not I want the HHO generators to run. My wife and I just have to remember to flip the switch to off when we turn off the engine, or to turn the MAF enhancer all the way counterclockwise so the van will run on just gasoline if we're not going to run the generators.
    Preach.........

    If you can spare the bucks, use a marine type battery, as it has both top post, and side post. At your generator negative, you can ground to the car frame, and don't need to buy the negative cable.

    Hook all the normal car stuff, to the top post, and run the HHO feed from the positive side post, and to a solenoid that is rated for constant run time.

    You can either toggle the solenoid, from your ignition circuits, or steal powrt through the toggle, from virtually any circuit (I use the headlight power input wire).

    Its also a good idea, if using just a toggle switch, to add a LED (light) to the circuit, as a reminder, to turn it off, when shutting the car down.

    Matine battery usually runs $70 - $100, and "permanent rated" solenoid is about 35 bucks.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    71
    Just fyi, when you have an engine coming on, what I call throwing a code, you can take your car to any Advance Auto and they will give you a reading for free to tell you exactly what's causing the problem or throwing the code. For some reason though they don't won't to take the trouble to clear it. Guess it's asking too much to hit a few more buttons.

  3. #23
    Jaxom Guest
    I'll have to argue that one. Many parts stores will hook a code reader to the ODBII port and tell you what codes are stored in the PCM's memory, but that only tells you what part of the system is having a problem, not what the actual faulty component is. An O2 sensor code, for instance, can be caused by a bad sensor, bad PCM, weak fuel pump, clogged air or fuel filter, vacuum leak, wiring problem, worn rings, contaminated fuel.....need I go on? The trouble code is just a starting point for the diagnostic process.

    Keep in mind, those guys are being paid to sell parts, not fix cars.

  4. #24
    Keith's Garage Guest
    Jaxom,
    I am so glad that somebody actually knows something about vehicles on this forum. I keep seeing to many people that don't know what they are talking about. Keep educating people so they don't keep making the same mistakes.

  5. #25
    Chris65 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Omega View Post
    When I installed my O2 extender my check engine light came on... it wasn't because the sensor was effected, I had hurried too much and forgot to plug it back in

    In my experience, a check engine light will not go out by itself. I reset mine with a code reader I've got. You can get the computer to reset by unhooking the battery hot lead for a few minutes and the computer will "forget" that a code was set.
    I know I am replying to an old post, but I want to add to this. Not all cars will reset the check engine light by disconnecting the battery. Some may also trigger the factory anti theft system or disable the radio, which will cause you to have to call a dealer for your make of vehicle and get the enable code.

    Usually AutoZone and some of the other chain auto stores will check and clear your codes for free.

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