OK. Thanks! But if I unhook the hot lead to my battery, and the code is reset, will the check engine light come on again?
OK. Thanks! But if I unhook the hot lead to my battery, and the code is reset, will the check engine light come on again?
Well, I managed to remove one O2 sensor extender from each sensor (keeping the power lead unhooked from the battery to reset the code).
When I got it all back together, no more engine light!
Driving to the gas station, I tried using the wipers, and they wouldn't work. I had hooked into the power for the wiper motor to power my HHO generators, and had blown the puny 5 amp fuse! The generators haven't even been running!
Now I've hooked into the 20 amp fuse for the fuel injector, and replaced the wiper motor fuse. All's running now. I'll post my gas mileage after my trip this weekend, but I'm afraid I don't know the pre-HHO mpg, as we've only had the van for a little while, and I haven't taken the time to check.
You shouldn't use the fuel injector fuse to power your generator. In fact, I wouldn't recommend using ANY factory circuit as the power supply for an HHO system. The generator just pulls too much power and the factory circuits are specifically designed to handle the factory parts and no more. Get a seperate fuse holder and a relay from the parts store and use an independent circuit if you want safety and reliability.
Thanks for the advice! I decided to go ahead and run it straight from the battery to a toggle switch just under my dash. I've got 3 inline fuses at this point, but I'll likely rewire to where I just have one.
I can now choose whether or not I want the HHO generators to run. My wife and I just have to remember to flip the switch to off when we turn off the engine, or to turn the MAF enhancer all the way counterclockwise so the van will run on just gasoline if we're not going to run the generators.
or to turn the MAF enhancer all the way counterclockwise so the van will run on just gasoline if we're not going to run the generators.
just curious, does turning the maf sensor enhancer all the way, turn it off, or take it to the super rich state? I just work with a map sensor enhancer which is, I know, different.
I would add that in car wiring at least, wires are designed to melt at certain temperatures. Using stock wiring to supply power to something that is more powerful will melt the wire used and a lot of times all the surrounding wiring. This happens to a lot of people who install powerful aftermarket stereos without knowing the consquences. Then they can't figure out why the stereo and tailights (or other) quite working at the same time. Then it just gets expensive.
Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. This should clear the CEL.
Drive the car for a while afterwards and see if the light comes back on.
If it does, remove the O2 extender and do it all again. If it doesn't come back on, your problem is with the Oxygen Sensor extender.
You may want to consider using an EFIE instead.
I hope this helps.
Please let me know how you make out.