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Thread: Please help with my dry cell

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    490
    Quote Originally Posted by shaunak View Post
    stevo...can you please tell me if 2% weight works fine then why do people in this forum ask to use 28% by weight..
    Simple: 28% is easier to get up and running. There are a lot of variables here. For my reactors, I use 1/16" FDA grade Buna-N rubber and 5 bipolar 2 active media blasted and specially conditioned 316L 18/22 gauge plates. This allows me to achieve roughly 1 L/m @13.8V 10-12A at room temperature. This is no easy task at all. Lots of work to build a single reactor, but I don't need 28% KOH - only 1-2% by weight. Others are fine with using 28% KOH and getting roughly 1L/m @13.8V >=15A at room temp. Every one of my tests have proven that higher concentrations means shorter bubbler fluid/media life and greater potential risk of engine ingesting noticeable amounts of vaporized electrolyte. My motor costs too much to take unnecessary risks that I can avoid. Also, since my latest discovery in plate conditioning, I have noticed two very interesting facts: system fluid stays clear and gas flame once ignited takes the form of what appears to be a "firework" instead of the traditional flame. I'm still compiling information and researching what may be happening here..

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,418
    can you please tell me if 2% weight works fine then why do people in this forum ask to use 28% by weight..
    I have to agree with Stevo. I also am not one for using full strength electrolyte. NaOH 20% and KOH 28%. I use the strength that runs the reactor at the amps I want it to run at without over heating and based on the size of the plate. The ones that use full strength have to use a PWM to keep things in check and they think that they have an advantage because the electrolyte has less resistance. I have found this is not the case. Low concentration is safer and there is no need for a PWM. There is a case for the use of a PWM if you want to control your reactor to even a lower amperage for certain engine demand and then bypassing the PWM for higher demand based on electrolyte strength but still not over heating it. This will give you two zones which if all is off at idle 3 zones and yields better returns on small engines. This is a complex set up and might not be something everyone is able to use. In larger engines where at idle they are consuming large amounts of fuel the reactor can stay on. I am talking about 30 litter engines or larger.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb deciding what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed lamb."

    ONE Liter per minute per 10 amps which just isn't possible Ha Ha .

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    India
    Posts
    14
    well stevo and myoldyourgold , i have modified my design..
    right now i have 2 working plates and 4 neutral plates...and i have used rubber spacers instead of pvc...now my fuel cell is leak proof...
    i am planning to use an invertor battery directly...it is 12v ...what percentage of KOH u suggest me? 28% or 2%?
    please let me know soon..
    and both my inlet and oulet are at same level..do i need to place the inlet slightly below the outlet? will it make any difference?
    waiting for your reply

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    490
    shaunak,

    Your inlet should be located at the bottom while the outlet should be located at the top. Gas will rise to the top and water will have a heavier gravitational pull, so if you place the inlet and outlet at the same level you will not get the natural pumping action that sealed reactors provide. Also, the bottom of your reservoir should be no lower that the top of your reactor. In other words, place your reservoir above the reactor. All of these steps have been proven to work time and time again here and on other forums.

    As far as KOH concentration goes, work your way up from 2% to see what you like. Expect that once you go above ~10% for your plates to begin leeching surface iron at a noticeable rate. Your water may begin to change colors and you will notice that a magnet will attract the sediment confirming the iron content.

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