Increase productivity/effieciency

[koya1893]

With my latest test with my "waterless" bubbler, you can increase productivity and efficiency by adding vacuum. Mimic the "old mason jar" wet cell system on a dry cell system, you'd be amazed with the result. Especially with diesel engine, even the IDI or pre-chamber system like in the old Benz.

[hhofox]

THanks for the info Koya! I wonder if your setup is different from what I did?

I placed a 'T' on the feeding line between the electrolyte reservoir (bottom) and the (entry point) of the Reactor. I put a check valve on the open leg of the 'T' to allow air into the line, and nothing out. I then attach the regular HHO output line to a vacuum source with some sort of in-line adjuster.

The cell is always sending the gas, but when I hit the accelerator, the air bubbles through it as well. It seemed to yield better results with this setup. It's hard to tell how much more HHO, if any, is produced though, since I am pulling air through it.

How is your system set up?

[koya1893]

THanks for the info Koya! I wonder if your setup is different from what I did?

I placed a 'T' on the feeding line between the electrolyte reservoir (bottom) and the (entry point) of the Reactor. I put a check valve on the open leg of the 'T' to allow air into the line, and nothing out. I then attach the regular HHO output line to a vacuum source with some sort of in-line adjuster.

The cell is always sending the gas, but when I hit the accelerator, the air bubbles through it as well. It seemed to yield better results with this setup. It's hard to tell how much more HHO, if any, is produced though, since I am pulling air through it.

How is your system set up?

My old way of thinking is having problem visualizing your set up, unfortunately mine is on a test trail for future patent and cannot share at this time. I can tell you, on my second test I am calculating a 30% increase. It feels weird barely pressing on the gas pedal at 55 mph and see the car keep with traffic. during idle the automatice idle adjustment on the car work great in cutting fuel.

[hhofox]

It could also be my unclear way of speaking that is preventing you from understanding as well. Here is a picture of the setup. The 'T' with the air check valve is the only addition.

http://www.hhoforums.com/attachment....1&d=1361998119

[koya1893]

It could also be my unclear way of speaking that is preventing you from understanding as well. Here is a picture of the setup. The 'T' with the air check valve is the only addition.

http://www.hhoforums.com/attachment....1&d=1361998119

Your idea is good, however the whole purpose of adding vacuum is to promote fast circualtion of the solution through the cell and evacuate the gas at the same time. Hence that is why the "waterless" bubbler works perfect to aviod vacuuming any moisture into the intake.

[hhofox]

Thanks, I was also thinking that the waterless bubbler would improve the setup a whole lot as well. It is also so easy to make that all I need to do is find some of that fine white cloth to test it out with.
Thanks for sharing the design again, by the way, you are a great contributor to the whole forum!

[koya1893]

I thought I would tease everyone with my latest test (third test) on my Ram after 250 miles. Stock would get 11.7 mppg on the same type of driving, with 30% WMO and 70% D2 and HOD with current MOD (inducing vacuum) into the system. I calculated 17.2 mpg, that's 68% from stock.

Those of you using the waterless bubler design, show me how you are using it so I can offer some suggestion to improve your system. Especially those running with diesel, you can induce HHO post trubo (inches to the intake).

[myoldyourgold]

Ben, in your experience how close can you be. You say inches..... is this 2 inches or 6 inches or ?? On some diesels the turbo is mounted on the intake manifold and there is absolutely no spot to inject post turbo.

[koya1893]

Ben, in your experience how close can you be. You say inches..... is this 2 inches or 6 inches or ?? On some diesels the turbo is mounted on the intake manifold and there is absolutely no spot to inject post turbo.

On my Ram the photo is rough but it will give you how close, yes my intake in part of the cylider head. the intake elbow is mounted directly above the intak opening as illustrated.
My recent experienced were not consistant, hence I kept testing to have a consistant test. Just got back from a 260 mile running around looking for Porklift motors on similar type of driving. 17.4 mpg this time.

[myoldyourgold]

Thank you Sir. One of the engines I will be working on is a cummins but the turbo is bolted on the intake which has a center divider splitting the manifold into two separate section just below the turbo. It is a stationary commercial engine mounted on a dyno. The cast iron housing of the turbo is bolted right on to the intake. I am out of luck in this case unless I build a spacer to fit under the turbo. I think that is what I will do. By doing this I can weld the fitting into the spacer but will only have an inch or two before the split with just a small spacer so everything else will fit. I am worried it will need more. I think 3 to 4 inches or maybe more is necessary to get properly mixed. Here is a really poor picture but the best I could get my hands on.

Thanks again