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Thread: Wholesale 17 plate design

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    Overtaker / H2OPWR;

    I don't want to argue, with anyone, but I also did not take this on, to come accross as a crook, either!

    I resented the implication, but don't want to make further issue of it, other than to explain the quality of the products.

    The plates themselves, are quality, for the price!

    First of all, I (myself), do not 4 gap, however I designed the assembly, to be used in many configurations, according to the users wishes. Personally, I use configurations, of both 5 neutrals (6 gap), and the seven gap style (dropping two pole plates), and I use NaOH, as electrolyte.

    However, the end user, can choose any combination, of configurations (learning, as he goes).

    The plates are not 316L, but they also do not carry the 316L price tag! They are 304L grade, with matching grade ss hardware.

    All too often, (even supposedly educated people), use mismatched plates, and hardware, and the whole thing goes wrong, as the softer metal will be eaten up, quickly, if they are unequally yoked!

    Except in relatively rare situations, you can not find 316 grade stainless, at lowes, or HD, let alone, in the low carbon "L" grades. But people don't think it through, and buy it anyway!

    In certain areas, like Alaska, 316L bolts, are the norm, as it is necessary to hold up in brittle cold. But try finding it, in Texas, or Alabama........

    However, provided the electrodes are made of all common grade components, even the least grades of stainless, can last a relatively long time! But as soon as cross grades are introduced, the electrolyte always eats away at the softest materials, until it arks, (if above water).

    But how many times have we seen people setting 316 plates, and linking them, with copper wires, and aluminum spade connectors?

    I don't infur at any point, that a given individual will have great success (or disaster) with them, as I know he can fail (depending on his particular level of inteligence).

    What the individual does with them, is completely up to him.

    I supply top level machining of the plates, and I can only suggest, gaps, and various configurations.

    If a man wants all pole plate types, to do a +-+-+-+-+ (series type) of install, I can accomodate him. Or if a man needs all neutral plates, in any given number, I also can accomodate him. But in each case I adjust prices accordingly!

    I know for a fact, that I have supplied product in the past, to people, who take the seventeen plate designs, I sell... And ,they make electrodes, of five plates total (or even less), in order to make more money, on e-bay. I have no control, over what they do!

    I also, do not insist on orders of 100 assemblies, but I do price small orders, at a higher price. I also sell other items such as individual nylon nuts/bolts/spacers, and o2 extenders.

    I also explain, that when used as a dry cell, gaskets should be cut, to overlap diagonal bolt holes, and that all bolts in this case, are to be beyond the outside edges, of the plates, allowing the water/electrolyte solution, to flow through those holes, normally used for bolts, in the open bath type of generator.

    By cutting gaskets with 2 square cut (diagonal corners), and two inside corners that cover the holes, alternating the cut corners every other gasket, forces the water solution, to opposite corners, to flow between plates.

    Also, cutting finger tabs in the top sections of the pole plates allows, the heat sink.

    I am an importer/exporter, and I know where to get things made, at the right price!

    I can get Pulse modulaters, or MAP Sensor Enhancers, or virtually anything you want made, at the right price, provided qty is sufficent!
    For larger photos of offerings see:
    http://shuttermotor.tripod.com/id12.html

  2. #42
    overtaker Guest

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    Dane, I like the flexibility. As you look at the huge supply of plates, are you tempted to make a monster-mac-daddy generator?

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    First off, I don't know what a Mac Daddy is, but a lack of knowlege, never stopped me before, so Why not?

    I've got more damned plates, than I know what to do with, and can get plenty more!

    I designed the plates, to be as flexible a system, as I could. It's original intent, was for it to be a learning tool, making the changing of configurations easy.

    Then, Stu, and I got to talking about using them for the drycell, and adding the heat sink.

    Further, we added an aluminum back shield to it, catching bottom draft, under the radiator, and directing the air over the heatsink, and into the radiator.

    There's no limit to the congigurations that can be done, even to set drycell, next to drycell, all sandwhiched, to large front, and back blocks, covering all.
    For larger photos of offerings see:
    http://shuttermotor.tripod.com/id12.html

  4. #44
    overtaker Guest

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    Mac-Daddy, you know the kind you would have to plug into a 220v. outlet.

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    Dane, I sent you a private message @pwms. I am interested, could you send me more info? Thanks, John JBSargent at gmail dot com

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    Quote Originally Posted by overtaker View Post
    Mac-Daddy, you know the kind you would have to plug into a 220v. outlet.
    And this helps your 12 to 14 volt system how?

    If my car had a 440 volt ciggerette lighter, I'd consider it. But even if it had a 240 volt system, you would be pushing the available power to the edge, and would most likely melt the car, all the way down to the puddled tires!

    Of course, if I had a 440 volt ciggerette lighter, I wouldn't need to smoke!

    There would be nothing left of it, after lighting it!
    For larger photos of offerings see:
    http://shuttermotor.tripod.com/id12.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by BoyntonStu View Post
    Their math is based on a standard multiplication factor of ten, where you don't even seem to grasp the concept that a single plate has two sides!

    And edges, why not count them too?

    Only ONE side if a cell plate produces gas.

    And only 1 plate in a cell of 2 plates produces Hydrogen.

    AFAIK No other person in Hydroxy cell discussion ever counts both sides of a single plate or counts the area of both cell plates.

    Wanna buy 20 sq yards of carpet; I count both sides?

    BoyntonStu
    I count both sides of a plate as usable surface area if there is adjacent plates in the configuration. I have a cell in service that has three plates, 1.5"X10", -+- in a 2" pvc "T" style cell case. I have personally observed oxygen bubbles forming and dispersing from both sides of the middle positive plate. Therefore I must count both sides as usable surface area, I have no choice. Surface area = 15 x (4) = 60 sq In
    But I wouldn't charge double for one plate just because it may have adjacent plates.

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    DaneDHorstead, Sent you an e-mail about ss plate.
    Do you have any assemblies that will fit into 3" abs pipe?
    Say 2"x8" or so.
    Thanks, crb

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    Quote Originally Posted by crb View Post
    DaneDHorstead, Sent you an e-mail about ss plate.
    Do you have any assemblies that will fit into 3" abs pipe?
    Say 2"x8" or so.
    Thanks, crb
    CRB


    Somehow, I did not get that e-mail, but your answer is....

    My plates are metric, thus they differ slightly, from imperial measurements, but comparing the metric to our own, they are an approximate 2 13/16" wide, and 4 7/16" high for the neutral plates ( 5 15/16" high for pole plates).

    Stacking seven plates maximum, would put corners right at the inside edge, if a 3" ID cylinder, is used.

    But, that would give you a 6 gap, with five neutrals, and a 2.33 volt drop, per gap (given 14 volts in).

    The plates were designed, for the larger 4 inch set-up, or to be used, with square/rectangular cut acrylic, if used for open bath designs.

    We also use them in drycell types, but have to modify the pole plates, in one, of two ways....

    If using gaskets, the higher pole plates tops are outside the gasket, and can be finger cut, to also serve as a heatsink.

    Or, the tops of the pole plates, can be cut to fit inside neoprene (or similar) front, and back halves, with sealant around the sides.

    Painless, and myself are also discussing, and experimenting a third option of use, for the plates, which we hope to release in the relatively near future.

    Painless will be discussing the results of those experiments, and he is a very trusted member of the forum.

    Note also, that I supplied plates to Boyton Stu, for some of his ameoba experiments.

    And Stu also, is a well respected member!

    Stu has already released results of many of his experiments, as well as video.
    For larger photos of offerings see:
    http://shuttermotor.tripod.com/id12.html

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    One further thing I should have mentioned.....

    These plates are virtually impossible to cut with a hacksaw, so hand shears can be used (but they distort the metal, from perfectly flat). If using hand shears, plan your cuts, so that any distorted metal turns away from other plates. You can also cut the pole plates slightly longer than the neutrals, so any distorted metal, bends above neutral plates.

    I use a diamond blade water saw (floor tile saw), to cut the metal, and even then, I have to dress the cuts, using a grinding wheel, or disc grinder. However, I can get straight cuts, and have very good control, of the cutting process.

    As long as water is used on the blade, the tile saw will even cut porcelin tile, which is harder, than steel.


    If interested, most Home Depot/Lowes, will rent tile saws, or you can purchase one, for about $100.00.
    For larger photos of offerings see:
    http://shuttermotor.tripod.com/id12.html

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