Originally Posted by
coffeeachiever
You are correct sir, that's a lot of questions. There's a lot of help here though. I'll do the best I can with it and let others fill in the rest.
1. An open bath cell is just what it sounds like. The plates sit in an open bath of water and electrolyte and the current flows through the whole bath. Controlling amp draw is a serious problem with this design, but some here like VanHalen and MyToyotaSucks have had some success with it.
A dry cell contains the electrolyte within the cell/resevoir and circulates it to help control heat, which is your enemy. A dry cell is known to run cooler and when built well can run indefinitely without heat issues. It is typically more expensive to build. There are many designs of each and there is no answer to which one produces more gas.
2. You want to have approx 2.4 volts between each plate and keep amps down to a minimum. Amps=heat and heat is the enemy.
3. EFIEs add voltage to the signal from your O2 sensor to the fuel computer. HHO gives you cleaner emissions. Cleaner emissions make the O2 sensor detect more O2 and it makes the fuel computer think it's running too lean. EFIE prevents that.
4. Stainless steel is used at a minimum grade of 304 due to its corrosion resistance and resilience to the electrolyte. 316 is a better grade to use but it is more expensive. Do not use aluminum as it will degrade in electrolosis. I believe it also puts out some poisonous gas.
5. People use many different containers. I use thick wall PVC for my resevoir and bubbler. Just make sure that your container is resistant to your electrolyte.
6. The vaccum is not enough to suck the water from your bubbler into the intake. At least none that I've heard of. If someone knows of this happening, please correct me.
7. The psi depends on your system. I have not a clue what the typical ranges are, but I'd bet my wallet there are some here that do.
8. See number 2.
Hope this gets you going.