Painless experiment in HHO

[H2OPWR]

Russ,

I do not know if it will work for you but I am making my resevoir with 4" ABS. The bottom is just capped. The top has a reducer down to 3" and a screw in plug. I drill where the cap or reducer are coupled with the pipe. I tap the hole with a 1/4" NPT pipe tap and thread in the hose barb. No glue at all. I have found like you have that the glue no matter the type will not hold up. The best type I could find was two part epoxy that was waterproof not just water resistant. It holds up OK but not like threading them in.

[cully]

check out my reservoir

the none return in the cap is too strong it still sucks the bubbler dry though so im going with the electric valve option when i get time to go to the breakers yard

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=jfbgUdjor8A

[Painless]

Russ,

I do not know if it will work for you but I am making my resevoir with 4" ABS. The bottom is just capped. The top has a reducer down to 3" and a screw in plug. I drill where the cap or reducer are coupled with the pipe. I tap the hole with a 1/4" NPT pipe tap and thread in the hose barb. No glue at all. I have found like you have that the glue no matter the type will not hold up. The best type I could find was two part epoxy that was waterproof not just water resistant. It holds up OK but not like threading them in.

Tapping is definitely the way to go, but only seems to be successful when your plastic is thick enough to make a deep thread. Do you need to use any O-rings on your setup to ensure the seal?

check out my reservoir

the none return in the cap is too strong it still sucks the bubbler dry though so im going with the electric valve option when i get time to go to the breakers yard

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=jfbgUdjor8A

Expansion tanks are good if you can find a decent one. I've tried two so far and the electrolyte (a much weaker solution) ate through the seal of the tank! By the way, your pressure relief valve in the top would probably be enough if you had a check valve on your run to the bubbler?

I'm still very interested in trying high voltage with pure distilled water, or maybe even straight water. I can't help but think that getting away from all these nasty chemicals will only help us bring HHO to everyone. It may also allow us to use other, more conductive, metals for plates. Aluminium will gain an oxidisation coating in water which might allow it to be used non-destructively.

[H2OPWR]

Russ,

I only tap where there are 2 layers of plastic. I tap the water outlet to the gen where I can drill through both the pipe and the cap. For the gas return and the gas outlet I tap where there are 2 layers of plastic on the top of the unit. I only use nylon barbs wrapped with the yellow teflon gas tape. I have never used O-Rings or anything else and have never had a leak.

[Painless]

I've given up trying to get readings on the 2 neutral setup with max strength electrolyte and the PWM. I took the time to thaw out my flow meter today and get everything hooked up ready for some tests at 15 amps and the back pressure of the flow meter was enough to cause the reservoir to leak. The goop around the barbs has just gone to hell.

I also experienced something weird today. I have seen my generator keep running when I've switched it off at the main switch, it seems that the stored current in it since going to 2 neutrals is enough for it to run for a while after shutdown. If I turn up the duty cycle on the PWM, it eventually runs out of current and stops. Today I had the cell running and just switched off the ignition and removed the key. MY ENGINE KEPT RUNNING UNTIL IT WAS GAS STARVED AND THE ELECTRICS WERE STILL OPERATING!!!!! Looks like I may need to install a one way diode on the power from the battery to my cell setup?

This didn't happen with the 5 neutral setup, yet, the wiring is the same and has not changed other than a few extra spade leads at the gen itself.

[alpha-dog]

I've given up trying to get readings on the 2 neutral setup with max strength electrolyte and the PWM. I took the time to thaw out my flow meter today and get everything hooked up ready for some tests at 15 amps and the back pressure of the flow meter was enough to cause the reservoir to leak. The goop around the barbs has just gone to hell.

I also experienced something weird today. I have seen my generator keep running when I've switched it off at the main switch, it seems that the stored current in it since going to 2 neutrals is enough for it to run for a while after shutdown. If I turn up the duty cycle on the PWM, it eventually runs out of current and stops. Today I had the cell running and just switched off the ignition and removed the key. MY ENGINE KEPT RUNNING UNTIL IT WAS GAS STARVED AND THE ELECTRICS WERE STILL OPERATING!!!!! Looks like I may need to install a one way diode on the power from the battery to my cell setup?

This didn't happen with the 5 neutral setup, yet, the wiring is the same and has not changed other than a few extra spade leads at the gen itself.

Your power relay might be sticking. Does it draw more current with fewer neutral plates.
Russell

[Painless]

Your power relay might be sticking. Does it draw more current with fewer neutral plates.
Russell

Russ,

The relay is definitely sticking, I noticed today that my PWM was hot even though the cell wasn't on. Looks like I need to change that out.

Russ.

[Painless]

Since getting my ELM OBD cable I've been looking at scantool software, there are some great products such as PCMSCAN, but they cost a fair amount of money. I've been looking at what is free for now.

After reviewing the voltage requirements of my old Thinkpad laptop, I've managed to get it running off of straight 12v from my vehicle. I've been playing with EasyOBDII on my way home from work this evening (I left early) and recorded some simple log files. They only show the data that you're currently viewing, but I've posted links to them here for anyone that's interested in what my Ram is doing without HHO:

EasyLogger121008180823.txt

EasyLogger121008182708.txt

I remember that Mike commented before about my Ram's ignition advance seeming to be very high, you'll note that it goes beyond 40+ degrees at some points.

If anyone knows of any free software that does more comprehensive logging, please let me know!

Russ.

[lowriderjj]

You might have missed my post 597 on this thread for software. This might help you!

[Painless]

You might have missed my post 597 on this thread for software. This might help you!

Lowrider,

I did see your post about that software, it looks awesome! Unfortunately, it seems to be made for BR chip interfaces where as mine is based on the ELM chip. Going to give it a try anyway!

Thanks!

Russ.