Idea for a bubbler/scrubber

[dg2010]

I have made several mistakes in the bubblers (or scrubblers which I prefer to call them) that I have installed. Mostly because they seemed to small for the job in hand.

I recently came across a water filter housing that I have converted. I is probably too large my in my case fits neatly between the air filter box and the radiator. Here is a link to show the type I have used. Hope it is of interest to some.

http://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-15...er-Housing.asp

[myoldyourgold]

I have made several mistakes in the bubblers (or scrubblers which I prefer to call them) that I have installed. Mostly because they seemed to small for the job in hand.

I recently came across a water filter housing that I have converted. I is probably too large my in my case fits neatly between the air filter box and the radiator. Here is a link to show the type I have used. Hope it is of interest to some.

Dg I have found that the volume is not what is critical but the length of time the bubbles travel through the water. Long narrow bubblers clean more electrolyte out than short fat ones. 1 1/2" to 2" diameter clear pvc tubes from 10 to 18 inches work very good and will be cheaper than the water filter. The inside of each bubble still contains some electrolyte so you want to break the bubbles up as fine as possible to eliminate as much as possible. The length and diameter of the bubbler depends on the volume of HHO going through it thus the range. I use 1.5" X 10" for 1.5 LPM or less and 2" X 18" inches for over 1.5 LPM up to 3 LPM. If you are producing more than that you will possibly need longer or additional bubblers to get things scrubbed up. The volume of water is only related to how often you have to change it.

[dg2010]

Dg I have found that the volume is not what is critical but the length of time the bubbles travel through the water. Long narrow bubblers clean more electrolyte out than short fat ones. 1 1/2" to 2" diameter clear pvc tubes from 10 to 18 inches work very good and will be cheaper than the water filter. The inside of each bubble still contains some electrolyte so you want to break the bubbles up as fine as possible to eliminate as much as possible. The length and diameter of the bubbler depends on the volume of HHO going through it thus the range. I use 1.5" X 10" for 1.5 LPM or less and 2" X 18" inches for over 1.5 LPM up to 3 LPM. If you are producing more than that you will possibly need longer or additional bubblers to get things scrubbed up. The volume of water is only related to how often you have to change it.

Thanks

It was the additional length that I was after. All the others were too short. I only got this because it was offered by a friend for a small price.

The bubbles are broken up in the reservoir though a SS tube with small peripheral holes. I need to do the same in the filter which at present has a 1/2" internal alkathene pipe. Will get that done over the weekend.

[myoldyourgold]

You are most welcome Sir. Space is the only problem with the filters in most small cars today. Length is usually not the problem. I use a filter on my test bench where space is not an issue. It is a 20" filter though, so do not have to change it so often and can recycle the distilled water back into electrolyte when it gets well saturated. I check it by measuring the specific gravity.

[astrocady]

At what point to you replace the water? What specific gravity? I have found that as the bubbler water reaches a certain amount of KOH, it becomes very foamy and will fell the top portion of the bubbler with foam, even forcing it into the supply line. And this happens a lot sooner than I'd like for it to. I have a cell on my bench that I'd doing a destructive test on, and I'm running it pretty hard and it's making a lot of vapor (no steam, though). Production is about 3 lpm AFTER bubbler. But I need to change the bubbler water almost every other day (running it 8-9 hours a day) to keep the foam down. If I add 50% vinegar I get another 8 hours before having to change.

[myoldyourgold]

Astro, I us DD distilled water in my first bubbler. DD distilled water works like a sponge and catches more electrolyte and a membrane that lets next to zero moisture through. I drain the bubbler when I need to top up my reactor using that water. The small amount of foam helps keep the membrane from plugging but you still need to rinse it out when you refill. I only use 12% KOH in my reactor and no electronics so not to much foam. In the second bubbler I use a proprietary very light oil mixture that is medium to high on the acidity scale. That totally naturalizes any alkaline left in the HHO and sends a small amount of this oily substance with the HHO. Works very good in my diesel because I think is slows down the burn just a hair and prevents any damage to the aluminum it might come in contact with. It also allows me to inject a little more HHO than I otherwise would be able to. The second bubbler needs topping up every other tank full. That is close to 2500 miles in my diesel. Great on long trips you only need to stop to empty the balder, eat and gives you a better choice of price of diesel along the way. I usually have a cheap source around the home base and refrain from filling up anywhere else when possible.

[astrocady]

hmm -- a light oil mixture in the second bubbler -- interesting ;-)

[myoldyourgold]

Astro not to mislead anyone one, the components are a light acidic oil and the remainder I'm legally at the moment not able to reveal and really do not no its exact formula. I came up with the idea and gave it to a large oil / chimerical company to develop and it is still in the testing stage. I can say the mixture is very fine and even the oil by itself seams to evaporate or mix into the HHO. I am going to be doing some pollution testing in the next couple of weeks as soon as my diesel gets back on the road. It is having a much needed rest. The trick I think is going to be getting enough/right amount in with the HHO but not to much. It has been working great so far but I am not sure that it is giving the max possible benefit. You can experiment with some commercially available oil. Make sure it is really light oil unless you want more pressure in your system. It does add more pressure just like a second bubbler of water or what ever would. In this case a long column of oil is not an advantage. The oil bubbler I am using is a stainless bottle. The diffuser is a flat disk type and only has one inch of oil on top of it, and 3 inches below it. When working there is a fog in this container and that is what is coming out. You need some additional safety like a flash pot / membrane and shielding. The normal flash back aresters do not work with the oil. You do not want a fiery mess of oil being spewed all over you engine compartment if you did have a flash back. WARNING this requires lots of additional safety, do not attempt this unless you know what you are doing!!!!!!!!!!!! Bench test your system many times before putting it in an automobile.